Are pesky bugs disrupting your outdoor areas? Mirimichi Greens Pest Control is the solution with proven efficacy and safety. This all-natural formula controls:
- Plus many more insects
Mirimichi Green Pest Control is not a neurotoxin and is made with all natural and/or organic ingredients. Mirimichi Green Pest Control is known to be safe to spray around people, pets, and plants, with an immediate re-entry time after the spray has settled, making it ideal for any outdoor area.
This formulation is a total control pesticide because it’s a pheromone interrupter, deterrent, repellent and also a larvicide which is what makes it so effective. By killing the larvae, egg cycles are disrupted so future outbreaks of pests are eradicated in the treated areas over time.
How to apply Mirimichi Green Pest Control:
- Use a backpack sprayer, backpack blower, hose dilution attachment, or sprinkler injection pump
- 1st application and infestation application – dilute 16 oz. of product per 1-gallon of water
- Reapplication rate – dilute 4-8 oz. of product per 1 gallon of water
- Reapply every 14-28 days
- Be sure to spray the entire property
Some of the important key points about Mirimichi Green Pest Control are:
- Safe to spray around people, pets, and kids
- It works in ALL weather conditions. Rain doesn’t affect the efficacy.
- There is an immediate re-entry time after the spray has settled
- Insects can not become immune to this product
- There are no harsh odors
This pest control product is ideal for any outdoor setting such as lawns, parks & recreation areas, campground sites, playgrounds, sports fields, golf courses, universities, farms, gardens and more!
Curious about Mirimichi Green products but don’t know where to start? Mirimichi Green can help! Below are two basic Spring applications to try using Mirimichi Green’s CarbonizPN Soil Enhancer, a soil amendment blend of premium organics and USDA Certified Biobased Carbon (biochar).
For sod applications:
- Evenly spread (1) 40-pound bag of CarbonizPN Soil Enhancer under 1-2 pallets of sod.
- Spray 3 ounces of any of our liquid bio-stimulants from the Release product line at the rate of 3 ounces per gallon of water.
- Be sure to apply the Release product after the CarbonizPN application.
For topdressing applications:
- Spread 20-40 pounds of CarbonizPN Soil Enhancer depending on the health of the turf.
- Spray 3 ounces of any of our liquid bio-stimulants from the Release product line at the rate of 3 ounces per gallon of water.
- Be sure to apply the Release product after the CarbonizPN application.
“Our greens have gotten a lot better since we started doing it from a firmness standpoint,” Tritabaugh says. “They weren’t bad, but in my opinion, they perform now just as well as they did when they were new.”
Tritabaugh and his team do not use an amendment during the process. Instead, the holes are filled with 100 percent sand. “We’re able to get the exact same sand that was in the root zone when the greens were built in 2010,” he says. “From a spec standpoint, it’s the same thing that’s already in there.”
Some have raised the question of whether DryJect will supplant traditional aeration as a standard industry practice. Tritabaugh doesn’t necessarily share that sentiment.
“I think it’s a tool to be used depending on what the superintendent’s desire is,” he says. “I think it would be a mistake to say that (core aeration) is unnecessary or that solid tining is unnecessary or that DryJect could replace either of those things.”
Based on his experience, Tritabaugh doesn’t believe the DryJect method will render core aeration or solid tining obsolete. Instead, he considers it just another tool in a superintendent’s turf toolbox.
“I think it can in the right situation, but I think it would be unfair to limit (a superintendent’s) tools,” Tritabaugh says. “It doesn’t mean one is particularly better than the others, but I think in the right situation certain ones are better.”
Tritabaugh hasn’t relied on pull-core/solid-tine practices at Hazeltine in recent years, but he hasn’t abandoned them either. “We’ve done some different methods on a couple of our greens,” he says. “Is it a tool we want to use in the future? It could be, but it’s not a part of our standard cultural practices.”
You have a Christmas tree! Now it’s time to prevent your tree from losing all of its needles and keep your Christmas tree as fresh and green as the day it was cut. If you are wondering how to keep a Christmas tree fresh and green, follow the easy steps below.
Steps for how to keep a Christmas tree fresh and green:
Step 1: Give the trunk of your tree a fresh cut across the bottom. About a half-inch should do the trick.
Step 2: Place the tree in water. A Christmas tree is like any other plant, it needs water to survive.
Step 3: Find the ideal spot for your tree. Of course, you want your tree to be in a visually appealing spot, but try to identify a location that is away from a heat source (active fireplaces, heat vents, space heaters, etc.). Heat sources will quickly dry out your tree!
Step 4: Add 1 teaspoon of Nutri-Tree & Shrub liquid fertilizer to the water supply. Repeat application for every third watering.
By adding Mirimichi Green’s Nutri-Tree & Shrub you are giving the tree nutrients that will keep your Christmas tree fresh and green all season. You will see less fallen needles around your tree, which means less clean up. It will help keep your tree deep green and lush until the New Year.
Don’t wait for Santa to bring you this gift! Place an order at a distributor location.
Green roofs and walls are gaining popularity in urban developments. This unique landscaping trend is more than just an architectural design, it provides the base for plants to positively impact polluted urban and suburban environments.
Green roofs and green walls
Green roofs are any roof that is partially or completely covered with vegetation, typically planted on top of a waterproof membrane. Green roofs can be a whole system that includes root barriers, drainage, greywater treatment, and irrigation.
Green walls refer to any form of a vegetated wall surface. This broad concept encompasses three major categories: living walls, retaining living walls, and green facades.
Living walls consist of pre-vegetated panels, modules, bags, or planted blankets that are adjoined to a structural wall or frame.
Retaining living walls are home to vegetation and act as a support for slopes.
Green facades are systems of climbing plants, vines, or ground covers that form a supporting structure.
Here are some benefits of green roofs and green walls:
- Improves the longevity of roofs
- Help the tenants below regulate temperature. It is estimated that an average three-story building can save up to 25 percent in the summertime energy costs.
- Decreases stormwater runoff by 40-60 percent which decreases the amount that flows into sewers
- Provide opportunities for food production and urban agriculture
- Provide habitat for wildlife. This could be a way to decrease the devastating impact of urbanization on nature.
- Improves air quality and circulation
- Protects the building structure from harsh weather conditions
- Provides a sound barrier and poses as additional insulation
A greener future
Green roofs and walls are a big step for the sustainability movement in urban design and innovation. These landscaped buildings provide many benefits to the community including thermal insulation, lower utility bills, naturally filtered air and water, and an ecosystem for wildlife.
Erosion can be a big problem, especially on construction sites. These simple steps will have a positive effect when controlling erosion and sediment problems on your next job.
Minimize disturbed areas
Control the territory of your project by working only in the necessary areas involved. Controlling the areas that are being worked on will reduce the erosion and sediment movement on the site. Keep as much natural vegetation as possible and do not disturb areas that have topsoil in place. Removing natural vegetation will disrupt the soil structure.
Create sediment traps or ditch
Direct runoff water to a prepared sediment trap. It can be controlled by redirecting water with diversion ditches located at the up-slope side of a construction site.
Many permits require stabilization measures. Some temporary measures can include hydro-seeding, mulch, blankets, etc. If the stabilization measure is permanent it can vary from permanent seeding, planting, channel stabilization and green buffer. Make sure you use quality products to ensure the work will last.
There are multiple options for erosion and sediment control on slopes that depend on the degree of inclination of the slope. Measures such as silt fence, fiber rolls, geo-textiles, turf blanket, and mats can be used as slope protection.
Storm inlet protection
Providing protection against erosion and sediment control on a storm drain inlet can be achieved by using silt fence, rock-filled bags, or block and gravel. The type of measure used will depend on the type of drain inlets opening and the flow that it is expected to receive.
Stabilized construction entrances will reduce sediment being carried away by construction vehicles. It is recommended to have two construction entrances, formed regularly by large crushed stone areas.
Inspect for signs of erosion
Inspection is the key when working with sediment and erosion problems. Inspect your project after a storm event or just after a small rainfall. By conducting small routine inspections you will be able to prevent erosion on the project site.
Tell us about your successful erosion control methods using the hashtag #MirimichiGreen on Instagram or Twitter.
High nitrogen poses an alarming risk to the environment and researchers are taking note. The human production of fixed nitrogen being used primarily to fertilize crops is said to be responsible for approximately half of the total fixed nitrogen going into the environment, according to a new study by researchers at North Carolina State University and Duke University.
Human production of fixed nitrogen is five times higher than it was 60 years ago. The researchers say the substantial increase could pose as much of a threat to the environment as the increase of carbon-dioxide causing climate-warming. One form of nitrogen gas, nitrous oxide, is a potent greenhouse gas that can contribute to rapid global warming. High levels of nitrous oxide in the atmosphere will degrade the atmospheric ozone layer and can develop a hazardous ground-level ozone.
William H. Schlesinger, Professor of Biogeochemistry at Duke’s Nicholas School of the Environment says, “Earth has never seen this amount of fixed nitrogen.”
To conduct their study, the researchers at North Carolina State University and Duke University gathered historical data on fertilizer use in agriculture and recent estimates of nitrogen-fixation rates. They analyzed trends in human production of fixed nitrogen since the beginning of the 20th century. Then they placed these trends in context with recent estimates of natural nitrogen fixation and denitrification rates on land and in water.
The researchers conducting this study were stunned by their findings. “While carbon has captured the attention of the world through climate change, we cannot ignore this issue,” adds Viney Aneja, Professor of Marine, Earth and Atmospheric Science at NC State. “Too much nitrogen can affect human health, reduce biodiversity and amplify global warming.”
Too much nitrogen (N2) in the soil benefits a limited number of species that can out-compete native species, reducing biodiversity, Aneja notes. The high levels of N2 pose a threat to human and animal health too. The high levels of N2 being used are now being found in groundwater. Excessive amounts of nitrogen in groundwater are associated with intestinal cancers and miscarriages and can be fatal to infants, as well as aquatic life.
N2 compounds as a fertilizer have been used by the people for many years, but time has changed the type of fixed nitrogen being used. Historically, only naturally fixed sources, like compost manure and guano, were applied to fertilize crops. In the early 1900s, German chemists Fritz Haber and Carl Bosch discovered a process that converts atmospheric nitrogen to ammonia, allowing humans to produce nitrogen-based fertilizers on an industrial scale for the first time. In 1960’s, more than 60 percent of farms in the U.S. had converted to using chemical fertilizer and the average nitrogen rate was 17 pounds per acre. By 2007, U.S. farms were using 82.5 pounds of nitrogen per acre on average.
Companies like Mirimichi Green encourage the use of lower nitrogen rates and offer low NPK fertilizers and bio-stimulants. Mirimichi Green products are low in NPK, but high in nutrient availability and contain liquid carbon. NPK is often a temporary fix to soil biology problems. Unlike N2, carbon is the key solution to many soil issues that can arise. Carbon keeps the soil aerobic, holds nutrients in the root zone, gives a home for all the protozoa, hype, fungi and other necessary elements for healthy plants and soil.
There’s more to turf management than just painting the field and filling in the divots. Being able to recognize turfgrass disease is extremely important for successful turf management and disease control. Forecast, diagnose and treat disease, environmental and insect problems in a strategic and cost-effective manner with these suggestions.
There are many ways to go about diagnosing turf diseases on sports fields. Here are some tips for successful turf management and disease control.
Write it down. With all of the inputs, applications, and staff, it’s best to keep a running list of the maintenance and any issues. Keep a record book filled with detailed notes on products used, application rates, locations of troubled areas, application equipment, etc. It is a helpful tool in overall disease management.
Consider the symptoms. When considering turf diseases, they come in many shapes and sizes. Knowing the symptoms goes a long way towards narrowing down the number of possibilities. Make observations about which part of the plant seem to be affected the most such as, odd-looking spots on the leaves, mushy roots and interesting patterns on the field will be essential information when matching it to disease field guides.
Look it up. Expert or not, a quick comparison will never hurt. When an incorrect diagnosis is made, products chosen to fix what was thought to be the problem will not work or could cause more problems. The following books are good resources, as well as the many identification tools offered by land-grant universities:
- “Compendium of Turfgrass Diseases,” by Smiley, Dernoeden and Clark
- “Managing Turfgrass Pests,” by Watschke, Shetlar and Dernoeden
- “Integrated Turfgrass Management for the Northern Great Plains,” by Baxendale and Gaussoin
- “Controlling Turfgrass Pests,” by Shurtleff, Fermanian and Randell
Timing is everything. Timing is a key control factor because, in the life cycle of each disease, there is an optimal point for treatment. Be sure to apply a fungicide product at the most vulnerable stage of the cycle to get the greatest degree of efficacy. It is equally important to make sure you are targeting the correct zone. Timing is vital because most diseases are favored by certain environmental or weather-related conditions. As such, the season of the year becomes crucial in the consideration of potential pathogens. Knowing which diseases are likely to occur at what point in the growing season is a powerful tool in disease management.
Get a fresh perspective. Take a step back to gain a fresh perspective of your field. It’s quite possible that other factors have led to the turf issues. Some of these other factors, such as compaction, scalping, heat, localized dry spots and nutrient deficiencies, can cause symptoms that mimic those of diseases.
Fall is the best time to improve the soil for next year’s growing season. By adding a proper soil amendment to your client’s yard in the fall, the yard will have all winter to restore the soil’s biology and nutrients. Before you can improve your client’s soil, determine what the soil needs and use products that can replenish it.
Start by testing the soil
Testing the soil is the first step you need to take in order to improve the soil. Without a soil test, you are often walking in blind as to what your client’s property needs. Assuming all soil in the area is the same can result in using the incorrect fertilizer or amount of soil amendment.
Be sure to take multiple samples from the property. Separate samples should come from areas that differ in texture, color and previous applications of fertilizers, organic amendments, and lime.
Adjust the pH level to improve the soil
The soil’s pH level is important because a majority of the necessary plant nutrients are soluble at levels of 6.5 to 6.8. When the levels are too low or too high, plants can suffer from the soil problems and develop diseases.
Mirimichi Green’s CarbonizPN Soil Enhancer is the ideal soil amendment for any soil pH problem. The product is a pH optimizer – it is able to lower the pH if it is too high or raise the pH if it is too low.
Add organic material to improve the soil
Organic materials are all ideal to add in the fall as they help provide food for soil microbes and protect the soil from being bare during the winter.
Compost is a good material to consider adding as it helps nourish microbes. Compost easily gets worked into the soil over time in the fall and winter thanks to the rainy or snowy weather. Additionally, spring-applied compost can attract a number of pests. Luckily, Mirimichi Green’s CarbonizPN is 50% compost and 50% biochar, so not only will adjust the pH, but it will also provide organic material to the soil.
Tell us how you improve soil for your customers during the fall using the hashtag #MirimichiGreen on Instagram or Twitter.
Clean up efforts and support after Hurricane Harvey are underway including monetary donations, food, water, volunteering, etc. With the excessive amount of sitting water in the Houston area, there is a growing concern about the growth of pest insect populations, such as mosquitoes. Now, a post-Hurricane Harvey chemical insecticide aerial spray application is underway. The Pentagon announced that it has dispatched C-130H Sprayers from the Air Force Reserve’s 910th Airlift Wing in order to “assist with recovery efforts in eastern Texas,” by spraying the insecticide, Naled. The aircrafts are set to spray a chemical insecticide in order to help control pest insect populations. The pest populations pose a health risk to rescue workers and residents of Houston.
The aircrafts will spray more than 6 million acres throughout the Houston, Texas area. The Air Force stated this effort is expected to surpass any previous aerial spraying applications. The Pentagon’s choice of insecticide could do more harm than good for Texas citizens. The Air Force reported the mosquito control aerial spray protocol involves spraying the “Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) approved and regulated material, Naled,” which the Air Force says will not be used in amounts large enough to “cause any concern for human health.” However, the insecticide Naled, is currently banned in the European Union due to the “unacceptable risk” it presents to human health and safety.
Chemical Insecticides Come with Side Effects
Although Naled is an “EPA approved” insecticide, the EPA is re-evaluating the product and its safety. The EPA’s website states, “the EPA expects to issue new human health and ecological risk assessments for Naled before the end of 2017.” Scientists and many alarmed citizens have stated that Naled will surely be banned soon as the EPA has found it to harm 22 out of 28 endangered species exposed to it.
Naled is a known neurotoxin in animals and humans, as it inhibits acetylcholinesterase, an enzyme essential to nerve function and communication, and has even been known to have caused paralysis. Scientific evidence, including a recent Harvard study, has pointed to Naled’s responsibility for the mass killing of North American bees. After only one day of Naled being sprayed in South Carolina last year, more than 2.5 million bees died.
Naled’s manufacturer, Sumimoto Chemical Corp., is also the manufacturer of SumiLarv. SumiLarv is a product that is now believed to have been the cause of the spike in birth defects in Brazil that was originally blamed on the Zika virus. The most concerning consequence Naled poses for human health is the chemical’s ability to harm pregnant women and fetuses. Side effects include smaller brain sizes of newborns, having a child born with an autism-spectrum disorder and other symptoms like dizziness and nausea.
Alternative to Chemical Insecticide and Pesticide Products
With the extreme side effects that are possible by using harsh chemical products, Mirimichi Green urges landscapers, homeowners, and others that are seeking a pesticide or insecticide to use natural and safe products.
There will be a safe alternative for insecticide spray applications after natural disasters occur. Mirimichi Green will be launching a 100% natural and safe pesticide – Mirimichi Green Pest Control. A common stereotype of natural products is the natural products don’t work as well as chemical products. Mirimichi Green’s Pest Control has been tested by the World Health Organization, exhibiting an 80% kill rate efficacy report for pests and larvae upon contact. Products don’t have to be chemically based to be effective.
The soon-to-come pesticide works on mosquitoes, fleas, ants, roaches, no-see-ums, chiggers, spiders, mites, whitefly, aphids, plus many more insects. Mirimichi Green’s Pest Control is safe to spray around people, pets, and plants and has an immediate re-entry time after the spray has settled, making it ideal for any outdoor space.
Pesky bugs and mosquitoes can ruin any outdoor experience and cause harm to a landscape. Here are the top 8 plants that repel bugs and mosquitoes that you can recommend to your customers struggling with insect infestations.
1.) Citronella Grass
Citronella is known for its oil being used in patio candles. Citronella grass is a better option than candles because it doesn’t burn out. True citronella plants, Cymbopogon nardus or Cymbopogon winterianus, are grasses. Often times there is citronella scented geranium being advertised as Citronella grass, so don’t be fooled.
This perennial is sometimes referred to as “nature’s pesticide,” because it can repel aphids, tomato hornworm, asparagus beetles, leafhoppers, and squash bugs. It’s recommended to buy transplants and place them in light, well-drained soil in full sun after the last spring frost.
Lavender is a fragrant plant and luckily its smell deters mosquitoes. Plus its purple blooms add a nice pop of color to any landscape. It likes to be hot and dry, so it’s perfect for summer.
Nasturtium repels whiteflies, squash bugs, aphids, several beetles, and cabbage loopers. This one will help other plants in your garden, too. It produces an airborne chemical that repels insects, protecting not only themselves but other plants in the grouping. Plant in early spring in moist, well-drained soil in full sun. They should be regularly watered and deadheaded to promote blooming.
Not only can this plant be used in the kitchen but it can help keep the bugs away. This is another plant perfect for summer heat because it likes to be dry. Mosquitoes are deterred by the smell of Rosemary. It can be planted it in containers, but it also works well as a hedge.
Basil is an annual herb and repels houseflies and mosquitoes. This plant needs six to eight hours of full sun daily, and its soil should be moist and well-drained. This versatile herb can also treat mosquito bites.
Lemongrass is closely related to citronella and repels mosquitoes, but unlike the latter, it’s edible and is commonly used in Southeast Asian cooking. It can grow 3 to 5 feet tall and adds lots of extra height and texture to the landscape. Avoid planting lemongrass in clay soil. This tropical plant craves moisture but is quickly killed by heavy soil that makes water puddle.
Refreshing mint can be used in dishes and cocktails, but it has an added bonus. It’s a perennial that can repel bugs and mosquitoes. It’s recommended to grow mint in a pot in order to control the plant.
Boca West Country Club and The Polo Club of Boca Raton are hosting the 2017 Distinguished Ideas Summit for the General Managers, Board Members and Leadership Staff of currently-awarded Distinguished Clubs on October 1st, 2017.
Boardroom Magazine developed the Distinguished Clubs award program to help vitalize and preserve the institution of private clubs by fostering a ceaseless drive to ever improve the “Member Experience” provided by private clubs throughout the world. A club will become nominated and certain factors about the clubs are evaluated in order to determine award winners.
Pre-selected speakers for the Distinguished Ideas Summit will discuss how they created a great member experience at their own clubs by implementing unique ideas and strategies. Shannon Easter, Director of Golf Maintenance and Environmental Consultant at Broken Sound Golf Club, is scheduled to speak about how incorporating Mirimichi Green products helped lead to the recognition the club has received for its sustainable efforts.
Shannon Easter will specifically detail how he is using CarbonizPN Soil Enhancer to develop a carbon filter in the soil profile. “Building a true carbon filter often brings up a lot of questions. It is no different than the idea of using a carbon filter to filter a house or air-conditioning unit. Why wouldn’t you do the same thing in the soil profile? Plus, it has a positive impact on the environment – it decreases our water usage, decreases the electricity I use for my pump houses, increases my fertility, keeps the plant healthier and we are using fewer fungicides,” said Easter.
Easter was the guest speaker on Turf’s Up Radio on Saturday, August 27th, 2017. He revealed that his course is “coming in under budget and opening 8 weeks early” due to hard work and success with Mirimichi Green’s CarbonizPN and liquid fertilizers. “We are able to profit about half a million dollars by spending around 10% more on the initial planting of the golf course,” said Shannon. He is able to cut down his maintenance, irrigation and avoid paying for members to play elsewhere. Shannon Easter’s newly renovated course, The Club Course, will be opening in November 2017, 2 months before the originally scheduled date of January 1st, 2018. Click here to listen to the full podcast.
Easter will also speak about Broken Sound Club’s program that focuses on water conservation, water quality, energy conservation, pollution prevention, waste management, wildlife habitat conservation and enhancement, as well as, their efforts to educate the community on sustainable practices.
Be sure to check back in for an update after the 2017 Distinguished Clubs Ideas Summit for more details on Shannon Easter’s speech.
Artificial turf fields have been gaining popularity for being low maintenance and eco-friendly because it doesn’t need to be watered, fertilized, or mowed. Is it truly beneficial and environmentally friendly to put down synthetic turf? Let’s explore 6 factors to consider about this field installation.
1. Maintenance for artificial turf fields
It is incorrect to think that synthetic fields require less maintenance than natural turf grass or to say that these fields are maintenance free. Artificial turf grass fields require:
- Additional infill
- Irrigation because of high temperatures on hot days
- Chemical disinfectants
- Sprays to reduce static cling and odors
- Drainage repair and maintenance
- Erasing and repainting temporary lines
- Removing debris accumulation
2. Costs start to add up
Long-term costs are less with natural turf fields compared to artificial turf fields. Artificial fields need replacing every 8-10 years, whereas a natural turf field requires consistent maintenance and occasional replacing. When artificial turf needs renovating every 8-10 years, there is a hidden cost of disposal of materials. Since the fields are filled with a ground-up rubber material, the material may require special disposal which could be costly.
3. Players prefer natural turf
A recent survey of 1,511 active NFL players by the NFL Players Association found:
- 73% of the players preferred playing on natural turf grass field
- 18% preferred artificial turf
- 9% of the players had no preference
4. Player injuries are a concern
There is little to no research comparing injuries incurred on new artificial turf fields vs. natural turf fields. Some data indicates that the traditional artificial turf fields increased athlete injury, primarily due to increased surface hardness. NFL players were asked in a 2006 survey “Which surface do you think causes more soreness and fatigue to play on?”
- 74% felt that artificial turf systems were more responsible for fatigue
- 21% felt they were the same
- 5% felt like natural grass systems increased fatigue
- The most common comment was in the open survey section was “make all fields grass to prevent injuries.”
5. Potential infections increase
The potential for increased spread of infections among players has been under close inspection when it comes to artificial turf complexes. In a report titled “Texas Football Succumbs to Virulent Staph Infection From Turf”, at least 276 football players were reported to be infected with an antibiotic-resistant staph infection. These infections were primarily associated with increased skin abrasions stemming from artificial turf.
6. High temperatures are an issue
Artificial fields cannot be played on all the time due to the higher temperature on summer days. The surface temperatures of artificial fields have been documented as high as 199°F on a day with an air temperature of 98°F. Researchers at Brigham Young University reported that “the surface temperature of a synthetic football field on campus averaged 117°F, with a daily high of 157°F. On an adjacent natural turf field, the surface temperature averaged 78°F, with a daily high of 89°F.” Artificial turf fields can be cooled down with irrigation but it is only a short-term fix. The only permanent fix for this issue is having the field be in an indoor facility. Because of these high temperatures, an artificial field will remain largely unusable during warm days. Additionally, practicing on an artificial field could increase the incidence of heat stroke, muscle cramping, and overall athlete fatigue.
Keep these 6 factors in mind when considering an installation of an artificial turf field.
Turf Symptoms Of Soil Compaction
Here are 5 signs to look for to determine potential soil compaction. If any of the symptoms are occurring there is a good chance the soil is compacted and needs attention and immediate maintenance.
- Shallow, thicker and shorter roots
- Smaller and fewer leafs/blades
- Thin patches
- Lacks green color
- Overrun by weeds (e.g., knotweed, crabgrass, annual bluegrass, goosegrass, clover)
Tips for Preventing and Correcting Soil Compaction
Incorporating any of the 3 tips below into a turf maintenance program can help reduce soil compaction.
Reduce and direct traffic:
- Reduce traffic by the establishing pathways of concrete, pavers, gravel or dirt.
- Minimize traffic when the soil is wet or near field capacity.
Take the extra necessary steps:
- Use maintenance vehicles with pneumatic tires.
- Change up the mowing patterns to reduce mower use on the same route.
- Increase the height of the cut to increase wearability and root depth.
- On golf courses, build large greens in order to frequently rotate cup placement.
- On sports fields, occasionally move around the field boundaries.
Modify the soil:
- Develop a soil medium that is more resistant to compaction with sand or loamy soils.
- Note that the addition of sand to clay soils may actually increase their compatibility and destroy soil structure due to the development of cementing conditions.
- Add organic soil amendments such as Mirimichi Green’s CarbonizPN Soil Enhancer to decrease compactibility of the soil. (However, it is not a long-term fix and requires additional amending.)
- Incorporate one or more cultivation practices (e.g., coring, grooving, slicing, or spiking) into the turf maintenance practices.
There is no single practice or product that can solely correct compaction problems and several must be combined for a successful maintenance program. The top solution for soil compaction is combating compaction before it has developed into a problem.
Give these tips a try and let us know what works best for you.
Having dogs has many perks, however, a lush, green lawn is not usually one of them. Unsightly brown spots in the lawn can appear after a dog relieves its bladder.
What causes dog brown spots?
These spots are caused by high levels of Nitrogen and not “acid” in dog urine as is commonly believed. Excess nitrogen in the waste is normal and due to proteins being broken down during digestion. Dog diets are usually high in protein so there will be high levels of Nitrogen. Small amounts of Nitrogen are good, but too much will kill patches of lawn.
According to the American Pet Products Association, 70% of US households have a dog. That equates to a lot of brown spots being formed on lawns across the country!
What can be done about dog spots in the grass?
Below are 4 tips for keeping the lawn looking healthy and green and preventing those brown spots:
1) Immediately Dilute The Spot
Watering the spot immediately after the dog has done its business will help dilute the Nitrogen. Running the hose for 10 seconds over the spot will help lessen the probability of the Nitrogen killing the lawn. Also, encouraging dogs to drink more water will internally dilute the Nitrogen. However, this technique will cause more trips outside.
Running the hose for 10 seconds over the spot will help lessen the probability of the Nitrogen killing the lawn. Also, encouraging dogs to drink more water will internally dilute the Nitrogen. However, this technique can also cause more trips outside.
2) Build A Designated Area
Construct a non-grassy designated area.
For example, a pine straw, mulched, or leafy area in the yard makes it pee-proof. Training the dog to use that area to potty may take a little time, but it is totally possible. Leading the dog to that area when it’s time to go will create a habit and a little positive reinforcement will encourage the dog to use the designated area. A homeowner can make these areas visually appealing to humans by placing potted hostas, ferns, or other greenery around the area.
If a designated area isn’t feasible, try “spreading traffic across a large turfgrass area or reducing the time the animal spends on the turfgrass may prevent damage.” Preventing over usage of the same spots will give the struggling grass a break and time to recover.
3) Plant the Right Grass (Grass Selection is Key)
Having the right kind of grass may also contribute to how easily and frequently these brown spots show up.
- Fescue and Ryegrass are the most resistant to Nitrogen due to the genetic makeup of the roots.
- Bermuda and Kentucky bluegrass do need nitrogen to thrive but are very sensitive to the time of year that they get fertilized. Unless the dog is only allowed to go outside during the spring and summer, these types of grass are very sensitive to Nitrogen and susceptible to brown spots.
4) Consider Fertilizing Less
If the lawn is suffering from brown spots, try reducing your fertilizer input.
Even small amounts of fertilizer may contain enough Nitrogen to kill the lawn in combination with the dog’s contribution. If you think your lawn needs a boost, try using a soil amendment such as CarbonizPN® Soil Enhancer instead.
Give these tips a try and let us know what works best for you.
Renovating any landscape or development area can often lead to many tough decisions – how to make the best choice between sod, seed or hydroseed is usually one of them. Below is a breakdown a few things to take into consideration because each project has different factors that come into play.
What is the budget?
There are price gaps depending on the size of the job and equipment/material prices and availability. Typically, sod is the most expensive option, costing customers between $6,000 and $10,000 for about an acre, due to high material and labor costs. The middle-ground option is hydroseed, and depending on the mix of the materials, it can cost a customer about $2,500 to $6,500 an acre. The application isn’t as labor intensive, but additional costs like finding skilled or licensed hydroseed technicians can cause the price to be higher. Also, hydroseeding usually isn’t an option for small jobs. Seed is typically cheapest, costing a customer from $1,000 to $5,000 per acre.
What tools are available?
Access to the proper tools is another major factor. Do you own or would you need to rent the equipment for the various installation methods? If you’re laying sod by hand, transporting sod pallets requires a skid-steer. Laying large rolls of sod mechanically is often the most efficient method, though it requires a “big roll” attachment on a tractor or skid-steer. Hydroseeding requires specific, heavy-duty equipment, including a retrofitted truck and a skilled crew to operate the equipment. Most companies revert to renting it or subcontracting the service. Seeding requires the least equipment and skill—a small push spreader can work depending on the size of the property or specialized equipment like a slit seeder may be beneficial for larger projects.
How quickly do you want to see results?
Contractors call sod “instant green” because it looks great the day it’s laid and provides instant gratification. Its fast-fix nature makes it perfect for commercial customers, like campus or property managers, with money to spend. But, sod requires upkeep and a good irrigation system or else the sod will die quickly. Seed can take four to five weeks before it begins to sprout. Many contractors prefer seed for longevity, suggesting it for homeowners who are less concerned with immediacy and want lasting results. Hydroseed typically takes as long to sprout as seed, however, its quick, efficient application is fit for large-scale properties, like fields or roadside turf, but it may be overkill in a backyard.
Vital components for success
Regardless of the installation method, the soil and water determine the success of a property. Prior to planting, it’s important to do a soil test. Lack of quality soil is often a detriment to new homes’ lawns or any property that has had issues with growing grasses. The test reveals what nutrients are lacking in the soil profile. While applying fertilizers may provide a temporary fix, it is important to get organics back into the soil. Here is a product line that can ensure healthy soil.
Tryon Internation Equestrian Center (TIEC) has a grass complex that is receiving new reviews about outstanding turf from riders across the country. The Grass Complex at Tryon International Equestrian Center offers the latest in turf technology. TIEC has a hybrid Bermuda grass called TifTuf Turf, which requires 38% less water irrigation, provides longer growing sustainability and season, as well as an ability to “repair” itself more quickly than traditional grasses. The entirety of the field also has been grown using a proprietary organic material from Mirimichi Green. Mirimichi Green’s products contribute to the thickness and longevity of the turf, but most importantly, the reduction of compaction in the soil. The TifTuf Turf used across the field is developed with ESI international footing surface of specialized sands, organic materials, and synthetic fiber installed on top of a six-inch high drainage system.
Spanning more than 12-acres, the Grass Complex has hosted both international and national show jumping classes, as well as international and national hunter derby competitions, and even portions of the cross-country phase of eventing during the 2016 USEA American Eventing Championships. Read more about what the TIEC competitors are saying about the Grass Complex.
Successful growing starts from the right soil ground and works it’s way up to the plant. Making sure you have the right inputs is absolutely necessary. Here’s how to know what to look for.
Healthy soil will aid an ecosystem of beneficial micro-organisms and nutrients to feed your plants. The first step you should always take is to make sure your soil is optimized to grow your plants. But how can you tell? You can test your soil with a home testing kit that will tell you pH and nutrient levels. Chances are, you’ll need to amend your soil.
The right soil is your first basic ingredient for a garden. Your current soil is likely lacking in nutrients and components needed for a healthy, prosperous garden. Adding garden soil will solve that problem.
Garden soils are great for a wide range of plants and gardens, including lawns, flowers, herbs, vegetable, and fruits. Proven garden soils are packed with elements that promote a healthy soil make up. Specialized garden soils can soften hard clay, improve drainage, or buffer the pH.
When planting a shrub, bush, or tree, you will probably need to improve the right soil in the planting hole. Just remember, planting mix is meant to be a soil amendment, not a soil replacement. Planting mixes will improve the soil structure around your new plant, getting it off to a successful start.
Potting Mix For Containers & Raised Beds
Plants that grow in pots or raised beds have different needs than plants that grow in the ground. That’s why it is important to always use a potting mix for your pots and raised beds. This is different than a garden soil or planting mix. Potting and raised bed mixes contain fibers like perlite, rice hulls, and coconut fibers (coir) to encourage proper drainage and water retention.
You don’t want to use just any type of mulch. We recommend organic mulch, made from organic matter with no chemicals or harmful synthetic ingredients that can leach into the ground. A layer of organic mulch can help to reduce watering needs, as well as, help keep the soil cool, make it harder for weeds to grow and can enhance the look of a garden. Also, when organic mulch begins to decompose, it will add even more organic matter to the soil.
Not everyone is lucky enough to have fertile soil. Your current soil is most likely deficient in nutrients or may have imbalanced pH levels. Fertilizers are a simple way to improve your soil’s fertility and provide nutrients to your plants and lawn.
It is very important to choose your fertilizers carefully. Some fertilizers can cause more harm than good from the chemicals and ingredients it is composed of. Chemical fertilizers will leech your soil of beneficial organic matter, micro-organisms, and nutrients required for a healthy, sustainable growth. Organic fertilizers or organic based fertilizers are made from natural materials that enrich your soil with nutrients, making it a more fertile and putting nutrients back into the soil for your plants to grow. Learn more about our proven soil products.
Choosing the right organic gardening products.
When selecting soil or soil additives, it’s not enough to simply look for the word “organic” on the package. Make sure you also look carefully at the ingredients on the label or in the Guaranteed Analysis. Many products that claim to be organic can still have harmful ingredients in the mix. Look for products that have been verified by an accredited, independent organization that meets the USDA National Organic Program standards. The Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) is one agency with such credentials. That’s one way to know the product you’re buying is proven organic, down the last ingredient.
1. Planting in the Wrong Place
A common Landscaping mistake is improper plant placement. People often do not take into consideration the proper sunlight and exposure for the plants they have chosen to plant.
Solution: Read the Plant Tag
All of the plant’s needs for growth are on the tag in the plant holder that you get when you buy the plant or you can check Plant Finder for plant requirements. If you are planting a tree, you need to keep in mind how big the tree could get and how much space it is going to need.
2. Cutting Grass Too Short
It’s a common myth that cutting the grass shorter means you get to mow it less often. By cutting your lawn shorter, you can cause more harm than good. Keeping the lawn too short could result in bare patches which could make it susceptible to diseases and insects.
Solution: Cut According to The Season
The key to a healthy lawn is to cut different lengths depending on the season. During the summer, the lawn should be a bit longer. This will give the lawn a little more shade and the water doesn’t evaporate so quickly. During the winter, cut it a little bit shorter so that the sunlight can reach the soil.
3. Not Fertilizing Properly
There are two ways that fertilizing can be a big Landscaping mistake. The first one is not using fertilizer at all. The other is fertilizing too often.
Solution: Use Caution When Fertilizing
Ask someone at your garden center or distributor to recommend a proper fertilizer for your yard and plants. A great fertilizer will provide nutrients that your lawn and plants need. You should never do so in the bright sun. It’s also a good idea to mix in fertilizer when planting new plants.
4. Not Accounting for Wildlife
If you aren’t into inviting wildlife into your yard you need to consider what kind of plants you are planting and what animals or garden pests might be around.
Solution: Plant Things Critters Hate
Before you plant in your garden, think about what pests and critters you have in the area. For example, pretty flowering plants can attract deer, so throw in some bitter-tasting ones in the mix to deter them. Once they get a taste of the bitter flowers, they are likely to stop coming around. If there are rabbits around, you may need to form shelter your garden bed by building a small fence.
If you want to invite wildlife, here’s a list to attract a variety of species.
5. Improper Pruning
Pruning can be is more than just chopping off limbs and twigs, it’s a technique. A bad pruning job can be very bad the tree or shrub.
Solution: Research Pruning
Every plant has a different pruning process. Fall and winter are usually some of the best times to prune, but research each plant in your yard to make sure. If you aren’t sure you are doing it right, consult a professional.
6. Irrational Irrigation
A lot of homeowners make the Landscaping mistake of overwatering or watering during the wrong part of the day. On average, most lawns just need an inch of a water per week.
Solution: Timely Watering
The best time of day to water the lawn (and usually any other type of plant) is in the early morning so it has all day to be absorbed. You can buy a sprinkler with an automatic timer to reduce water waste, or even put in an irrigation system. If you water during mid-day, the water will end up evaporating too quickly.
Myth: Newly Planted Trees Need To Have Stakes
It’s often thought that a newly planted tree needs to have stakes for support. This used to be a landscape industry standard but is now known to cause problems. Staking a tree can hinder its development and growth. It’s best to avoid staking unless the new tree is located in a windy area or on a sloped landscape. Not having a stake to rely upon on will allow the development of stronger and more stable roots. If a newly planted tree starts off with stakes for support, once the stakes are removed, the health of the tree could fail.
Myth: Sunshine reflected water droplets will burn leaves
The diffused rays of the sun are not powerful enough to cause burning. If it were the case that water droplets burned leaves, farmers would encounter huge losses after each daytime rainstorm. In fact, lawn care professionals often cool turf by spritzing water over the foliage during the hottest part of the day. The only time this may be an issue is if you are doing a foliar spray with a fertilizer during mid-day. The fertilizer sitting on the leaves could then cause burning from the sun. Alway read the full label before applying a fertilizer and follow the directions. The best time to water most garden plants is early in the morning because of higher municipal water pressure, a lower evaporation rate, and the potential to reduce foliar diseases. But if you are left with no other choice, watering midday will not harm your plants.
Myth: Add Sand To Break Up Clay Soil
This myth can actually make your soil worse! By adding sand to clay soil will turn the clay soil into a very hard, mortarlike substance. The best solution to break up clay soil is to use a soil amendment. It will help loosen heavy soils because it is light in composition and also improves nutrient quality. Sand can improve a clay soil, but it must be added until it makes up most of the mineral composition of the soil. Then it’s not clay soil; it is sandy soil.
Myth: When planting, dig the hole twice as wide and twice as deep
A planting hole should be twice as wide as the root-ball but not twice as deep. By doing so, you will encourage the roots of a plant to grow out. This will create stability and allows the plant to readily find water and nutrients. In order to make sure that the root-ball is at the correct depth is to have the top roots parallel with the soil surface and then apply 2 inches of mulch over them for a protective cover.
Myth: Drought-Tolerant Plants Don’t Need To Be Watered
While drought-tolerant plants need less water than other plants, they still need to be watered occasionally. The best way to know if your plant needs watering is to feel if the soil around the plant is dry. If the has little or no moisture, water it. Young plants are very susceptible to drought because their roots shorter and smaller and are getting established. Be vigilant about keeping the soil slightly moist, but not soggy.
Myth: Sprinkling Coffee Grounds Around Acid-Loving Shrubs Lowers The Soil’s pH
Coffee grounds are acidic and mixing it into the soil can affect pH. Fresh coffee grounds restrain plant growth because it can tie up nitrogen in the soil as it decomposes. To lower your soil’s pH without causing a nitrogen deficiency or other nutrient deficiencies, purchase a sulfur-based soil acidifier (available at garden centers) and amend the soil by following the package instructions.
Myth: Painting Pruning Cuts Will Protect Trees From Disease and Insects
Professional arborists gave up the practice of painting tree wounds and pruning cuts along time ago. There is little evidence that pruning tar or any other compound will prevent disease or insects from entering tree wounds. Research suggests that painting the pruning cuts actually slows the tree’s natural healing process of sealing cuts with a tough layer of “woundwood.” The best ways to avoid damaging your trees is to make clean cuts with proper pruning tools and prune during late winter when diseases and insects are dormant.
Myth: Gravel in The Bottom of Containers Will Improve Drainage
Instead of preventing root rot, adding gravel to container plants will make it more likely to occur. Water is naturally pulled down through the container by gravity and then the water builds up near the drainage hole. A layer of gravel at the pot’s base serves as the drainage hole and collects water in the same way. So instead of preventing roots from sitting in water at the container’s base, the gravel simply moves the pool of water higher up the pot. The best way to guarantee proper drainage is to use a potting soil made that contains some coarse materials.
By eliminating these myths from your garden practices, your garden will be more successful and healthy.
Wildlife can help bring your garden to life. Butterflies, birds, and bees entertain us but they also need us to be able to thrive in the local environment. Planting a variety of flowers, trees and shrubs on your property will offer food and shelter to encourage the growth of attracting wildlife.
Incorporate Native Plants
Native plants are plants that naturally occur in the area where you live and are the best for birds and other wildlife. Native plants provide nectar for hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees. Plants provide yummy seeds and fruit for birds and a safe place to nest. Native plants are also a vital part of the ecosystem because native insects feed on native plants. And native birds need those insects to feed their young.
Grow Flowers Rich With Pollen And Nectar
By choosing nectar and pollen-rich plants will attract wildlife. A series of blooming annuals, perennials and shrubs is best so nectar and pollen will continue to be available throughout the year. If you have a small yard you can still offer a planter with a few well-chosen species of plants. In order to protect pollinators, don’t use pesticides on open blossoms or when bees or other pollinators are present.
Provide Food And Water
Consider adding special feeders to help attract hummingbirds and butterflies. Bees, birds, and butterflies also need a water source. You can install a water garden or a bird bath that will serve as a watering hole and decor for your yard. Butterflies are attracted to muddy puddles and get necessary nutrients, as well as water.
Plants That Attract Butterflies
- Bee balm
- Butterfly bush
Plants That Attract Butterfly Caterpillars
Plants That Attract Hummingbirds
- Bee balm
- Bleeding heart
- Butterfly weed
- Coral bells (heuchera)
It’s officially the first day of summer. While you may enjoy summer, your plants and turf might not. In previous years, have you noticed your plants or turf suffering from the summer heat and drought? This year you can prevent the stress of summer for your plants or turf by applying Mirimichi Green’s Nutri-Kelp.
Mirimichi Green’s Nutri-Kelp (1-1-4) benefits:
- 100% cold processed Norwegian sea kelp, to release and preserve kelp’s beneficial constituents without harmful exposure to heat or chemical extraction
- Helps fight plant stress
- Improves drought tolerance in plants
Nutri-Kelp was developed by combining 100% cold processed Norwegian sea kelp, vitamins, enzymes, organics, and essential nutrients to resolve the soils nutrient deficiencies. Nutri-Kelp liquid fertilizer is less than 400 Dalton size (smallest on the market). This patent-pending nanotechnology optimizes absorption, growing stronger root systems, abundant produce, and richer foliage. Nutri-Kelp’s beneficial nutrients combined with potassium creates a powerful, proprietary formula that optimizes the pH level, protecting your plants and soil from the harmful exposure to heat and chemical extraction. For more information about application rates for Nutri-Kelp, click here.
1. Don’t wake up the seeds
There are always weed seeds that lie dormant in the soil. The seeds are waiting for the sunshine to start to germinate or be awoken from a long slumber. To avoid awakening the weed seeds, don’t disturb the soil. Disturbing the soil includes tilling and cultivating. But that seems somewhat impossible when trying to plant new flowers, plants or grass. When planting flowers or plants, sow the seeds above the ground in a small mound of topsoil or compost.
2. Fight the weeds before they sprout
An effective way to prevent weeds is by using a pre-emergent herbicide that will stop weed seeds from ever germinating but won’t kill existing plants and grasses.
The tricky part is determining when to apply a pre-emergent because it must be applied before the weed seeds have time to germinate underground. The best way to know when to apply a pre-emergent is to make note of the date when you see the first weeds in the yard or garden. Then, mark your calendar 3 weeks before that date for next spring and apply the pre-emergent then.
You can also start from scratch by using a non-selective herbicide. This will kill whatever it sprays. It is also recommended to use organic options to prevent harmful synthetic build up in the soil. A great option is Mirimichi Green Weed Control. It is organic, OMRI listed and will show results in 24 hours.
3. Promote healthy plants & grass
If there is healthy grass, weeds will have less room to grow in the lawn. To promote a healthy lawn, reseed bald patches and fertilize if a soil suffers from nutrient deficiencies. By maintaining a healthy lawn, fewer weeds will arise. Nutri-Turf has the ideal balance of nutrients for all grass types and will keep the lawn lush.
4. Keep your plants close
Planting closely together will provide more shade to the soil below, which will prevent weed seeds from getting sunlight and allow less room for weeds to grow. You can usually reduce the recommended planting space on the packaging by about 25 percent. However, most spacing recommendations are based on the prediction that adjoining plants will not touch at their mature size, so follow the guidelines if you are planting plants that are prone to foliar diseases.
5. Create an organic barrier
Spreading an organic barrier around plants will submerge weed seeds and prevent light from starting germination all while keeping your plants cool. Organic barriers are best such as mulches. Mulches can host crickets and carabid beetles, which will feed on weed seeds. To create the organic barrier, spread mulch 2 to 4 inches deep around your plant bed.
In order to know the importance of organic soil matter, it is necessary to understand what it is. According to Cornell University’s Department of Crop and Soil Sciences, soil organic matter is the fraction of the soil that consists of plant or animal tissue in various stages of decomposition.
Having organic soil matter incorporated into the soil profile offers many benefits. This matter increases the ability to hold nutrients, all while reducing leaching and fertilizer needs. The soil’s ability to hold nutrients is called cation exchange capacity (CEC) and every growing plant or grass needs the basic nutrients in the soil to survive and grow. Soil organic matter also increases available water capacity by aerating the soil structure and reduces compaction.
Not having organic soil matter for sports field soil presents many issues. Sand-based fields that are unamended dry out quickly. A sand field without an organic amendment makes it difficult to for players and can contribute to injuries because it lacks cohesion. Large divots are often the result of sand fields with no organic matter incorporated.
Non-sand-based fields can also benefit from organic matter because it gives proper structure to the soil which permits water drainage. Without organic soil matter, loamy and clay soils become extremely dense which causes plants or grass roots to not grow as deep. The more compact the soil is, the less aerated it is. Regardless of the type of soil, this matter is necessary for successful plant or grass growth.
An ideal organic soil amendment to add to any soil type is Mirimichi Green’s CarbonizPN Soil Enhancer. CarbonizPN Soil Enhancer is a professional blend of premium organics and USDA Certified Biobased Carbon that remains in the soil to increase fertility and water absorption while decreasing nutrient leaching. CarbonizPN reduces water, fertilizer and chemical input needs. The structure of the soil amendment helps to aerate the soil and reduces compaction. Due to the carbon in the product, it is able to optimize pH and increase nutrient uptake (CEC) all while being natural, sustainable and safe.
Did you know that the name Mirimichi was chosen for its Native American meaning: “place of happy retreat”? Here at Mirimichi Green, we believe that happiness starts from the ground up. Mirimichi Green has picked the Top 10 Beautiful, Sustainable, and Eco-Friendly Landscapes. The list of landscapes below are just as beautiful as they are eco-friendly and sustainable because they use Mirimichi Green products.
1. Broken Sound Club – Boca Raton, FL
Broken Sound Club has taken a sustainable initiative to the golf industry. They have incorporated CarbonizPN, Nutri-Release, Nutri-Kelp and Nutri-Turf into their golf maintenance program.
2. Arizona State University – Tempe, AZ
Arizona State University is all about giving back to the community with this community garden. Not only does the community benefit, but so does the garden. This garden is using CarbonizPN to enhance the soil.
3. Oriole Park at Camden Yards – Baltimore, MD
The Orioles grounds management crew hit a home run by incorporating CarbonizPN into their program.
4. Tryon International Equestrian Center – Mill Springs, NC
Not only do they have a great jump, but they have great turf too! Tryon International Equestrian Center (TIEC) blended CarbonizPN into their custom footing to grow deep roots and reduce compaction. TIEC also mixes Nutri-Release, Nutri-Kelp and Nutri-Turf to spray the cross country course and derby field with.
5. Albany Golf Club – New Providence, Bahamas
Sandy soil has little to no nutrients and the Bahamas is no different. The Albany Golf Club uses Release 9-0-1 C to put carbon and other macro and micronutrients back into the soil to create a healthy soil profile.
6. North Shore Country Club – Glenview, IL
North Shore Country Club (NSCC) is mindful of its’ community and environment. NSCC strives to use sustainable inputs and does so by using all of Mirimichi Green’s products.
7. Duke University – Durham, NC
A prestigious university needs a prestigious campus. Not only does Duke University’s Wallace Wade Stadium apply Mirimichi Green’s CarbonizPN and Nutri-Release but the products are used throughout the school’s grounds too.
8. The “Living Wall” at Grande Dunes – Myrtle Beach, SC
The Living Wall was created to help with erosion control issues at a new development site in Myrtle Beach. Grande Dunes incorporated CarbonizPN into the soil mix when the seed was applied. A luscious, vibrant living wall was the result.
9. University of Kentucky – Lexington, KY
To minimize compaction issues on the University of Kentucky soccer field, the grounds crew topdressed the field with CarbonizPN. Now with carbon in the soil profile, the field is in its’ prime.
10. Bellagio – Las Vegas, NV
What happens in Vegas, doesn’t have to stay in Vegas! The Bellagio treated struggling trees on the property with Mirimichi Green’s Tree & Shrub, Nutri-Kelp and Nutri-Release.
No matter what project or industry, Mirimichi Green products can and will make a sustainable difference resulting in a beautiful and eco-friendly landscape.
Aerification or aeration accomplishes three key objectives:
- Relieves soil compaction
- Can improve the soil mixture around the root zone
- Reduces the thatch accumulation
But do you know when to aerate your lawn?
Timing is vital for aeration. Your grass type will determine what time of year you should aerate your lawn. Lawn grasses fall into two categories: warm-season and cool-season. Warm-season grasses start active growth in summer. Cool-season grasses are dormant in the summer and begin growth in early fall.
Warm-season grass types – aerate in late spring / early summer: Bahia grass, Bermuda grass, Buffalo grass, Centipede grass, St. Augustine grass and Zoysia grass
Cool-season grass types – aerate in fall: Creeping bentgrass, Fescue (chewings, hard, red, tall), Kentucky bluegrass, Rough bluegrass, Ryegrass (annual, perennial)
Now that you know when to aerate, now determine how often you should based on your soil type. Different soil types require more frequent aeration. Clay soil tends to be very compact and should be aerated at least once a year. You can aerate a sandy lawn once a year or alternate years. In dry climates, aerating twice a year will promote turf growth and health.
Once you’ve completed aeration, there is more you can do for your lawn. After completing aeration spread Mirimichi Green’s CarbonizPN at a rate of 20 lbs. per 1000 SF. CarbonizPN consists of carbon-rich biochar and premium organics. Getting this product into the soil profile offers benefits for your lawn to improve soil structure and provide the grass with nutrients. CarbonizPN benefits include:
- Reduces water needs
- Aerates soils and reduces compaction
- Optimizes pH
- Increases nutrient uptake (CEC)
- Provides permanent home for healthy biology
- Sustainable, natural, and safe
For more application rates, click here.
1. Don’t Over-Water
Many people over-water which is not only wasteful but it means you are doing more work than you need to. To determine if it is time to water, look at the soil about a spade deep down. If the soil is damp, leave it alone; if it’s dry, it’s time to water. Watering in the evening when it is cooler also reduces evaporation, which saves on water usage.
2. Not all Soils Need the Same Amount of Water
Take into account the soil type when determining how much you should water. Light sandy soils need to be watered more frequently than heavy soils.
3. Collect Rainwater
Collecting rainwater is simple. Just divert the water from your drainpipe into a bucket or bin. And the best part is that saves water and it’s free! You can then use the collected water to dilute Mirimichi Green fertilizers and soil additives.
4. Choose Native Plants
Choosing native plants will require little or no water beyond what nature provides. Native plants are used to the environment, therefore, the plants will thrive.
5. Choose the Right Soil
Choosing the right soil is not only important for water usage, but it is important for the health of your plants. Mirimichi Green CarbonizPN Soil Enhancer helps plants thrive by improving the efficiency of your soil and soil structure. CarbonizPN Soil Enhancer is a professional blend of premium organics and USDA Certified Biobased Carbon that remains in the soil to increase fertility and water absorption while decreasing nutrient leaching. CarbonizPN also promotes a healthy, long-lasting biological rhizome.
Click here for a list of distributors!
From fertilizers and bio-stimulants to soil amendments and organic herbicides, Mirimichi Green is the premier provider of effective earth solutions. Every product they make is designed to promote healthy and thriving landscaping all while improving resource conservation. Each and every product delivers outstanding performance and lasting benefits.
“I wanted to let you know that your products are fitting into our agronomic program in huge ways. We are seeing results in enormous proportions, with the carbon product that we incorporated into our soil profiles. We are seeing less nematode activity, reduced fertility rates, and longer nutrient retention in the soils. We also applied the carbon product to reduce nutrient runoff into the ecosystem during the grow-in of the Old Course at Broken Sound summer of 2015 with incredible results as well. Your product is now part of our annual agronomic programs here at Broken Sound Country Club in Boca Raton, Florida.” – Shannon Easter, Director of Golf Maintenance at Broken Sound Club
When incorporating Mirimichi Green products into landscaping maintenance, users will be able to reduce their current inputs by up to 25%. One great benefit of using this product line is the ability the use them with other products. Not only will Mirimichi Green products work, but they will enhance current inputs as well. All Mirimichi Green products have a natural and organic base. Each product is unique with its nutrient package and benefits for the plant. Check out the line of eco-friendly and sustainable products here. Mirimichi Green specializes in solutions, not just products!